Best Bites :: LA
Only in LA can new eateries open- and thrive- in recessionary times.
LA EATS (and how!) at these notable new hot spots- from the eastside to the westside, and all around the town.
Our current crop of favorites...
Toscanova
Toscanova had us at hello- or more specifically, at the warm "ciao" of sexy manager Davide. The Tuscan-inspired interior features (true to its name) some very modern touches that work well with the ritzy redo of the shopping plaza, especially a wood-burning oven strategically placed in the line of sight but not (as is all too often the case) as an inferno towering above diners. While Tuscany takes center stage, noted restaurateur Agostino Sciandri casts equal light on all of Italy’s regions- and we couldn’t be happier about that, especially when he’s so committed to authenticity and simple elegance in presentation and cuisine.
Mussels in white wine and garlic sauce (with a generous parsley adornment) are all about the freshness of the seafood; the broth, more understated than northern French or Belgian varieties, sees to that. The pastas are magnificent, none more so than the housemade Umbricelli, flat pasta with sweet Sicilian sausage and mushrooms. This chef knows that there is no need to augment this traditional dish with fancy finds; his signature comes in the freshness and authenticity of ingredients and technique.
We expected his Brassato- a Lombardy classic of braised beef- to be exceptional, and it was: fall-off-the-bone beef in a rich but not overpowering tomato braise is served with on-pitch mashed potatoes.
Desserts? The hand-stacked tiramisu, charmingly served in a coffee cup, is all sweetness, light, and perfectly right. Service was impeccable throughout. Back for pizza, which beckoned so bright? Subito, signore.
TOSCANOVA
Century City Shopping Center
310.551.0499
The Californias
The Californias brings a California modern décor and James Beard-award winning chef to a part of town better known for shorts-clad tourists than fine dining. Hooray, we say: now there’s excellent breakfast, lunch, and dinner a stone’s throw from the Burbank Studio Center.
Chef Urs Balmer, Swiss bred and trained, casts a meticulous eye on modern cuisine of the Americas, proving that healthful and sumptuous are not mutually exclusive terms. Best proof: his Ahi Tuna Tartar (where a touch of mayonnaise brings a lushness not normally found); Sauteed Nantucket Sea Scallops with a witty "bloody Mary" essence; and Cripsy Coconut Crusted Shrimp, served on a delightful bed of peppered pineapple. The Half-Pound Sirloin Burger is among LA’s best (as are the fries); we only wish the Boneless Braised Beef Ribs had shied away from the sweet-and-sour orientation that infects too many local kitchens these days. (Recast slightly, this dish will be a winner.)
Tip to tipplers: Happy Hour beckons with half-price specials and a bar menu during the week. Suddenly, the Barham traffic nexus doesn’t seem so bad...
The Californias
The Sheraton Universal Hotel
818-509-2777
Corkbar
Corkbar solves the age-old quandary of where to eat downtown chicly without breaking the bank. Devoted to super-seasonal, locally produced fare, there’s plenty to like: from a beautifully seasoned charcuterie sandwich, a shrimp risotto, and- save us from temptation!- the richest three-cheese mac in town. (Roasted pasilla chiles in cream, instead of the usual béchamel, are the heroes here.) Banana bread pudding is also fiery and fine, with just a dash of cayenne to counterpoint the sweetness and lightness.
The woodsy tables lend a communal feel to the high-ceilinged industrial space; unlike many downtown loci that are either up high or in basements, this one has full windows at street level. Natalie, one of the servers, is a doll; schooled in Europe, she knows masses about the California-based wines; nearly 50 grace the menu now. Don’t miss special pricing on select items from 4-7pm weekdays; they mark the grand opening of this corky new downtown space.
Corkbar
403 W. 12th Street, Downtown LA
213-746-0050
Wurstkuche
Wurstkuche is the answer when it comes to the question of how to marry high-concept cool with lots of heart. The packed house at this haus of exotic grilled sausages sees Arts District gentry, business types, and from-everywhere-else sausage queens rub shoulders in unity, peace, and love of meat. (There are a couple of vegetarian options for sustainanble types, but we so didn’t go there.) We love seeing a reasonably priced new place downtown, especially when the food is this good: grilled sausages run from longtime favorites (bodacious brats) to fancy new friends (rattlesnake and rabbit), all under ten bucks.
The Belgian fries, with a choice of dipping sauces (including, usually, a housemade mayo) are the very best in town; do yourself a favor and order the large. You also shouldn’t miss their industrial-but-inviting communal dining room, a 10-seat bar where biermeister Travis serves what may be L.A.’s most extensive selection of -mainly- Belgian and German draughts; it’s certainly the city’s most esoteric. Wunderbar, this Wurstkuche.
Wurstkuche
800 E. 3rd Street, Downtown L.A.
213.687.4444
The Fix
The Fix is fab. Handsome owner Paul Joo saw the need for a happy hamburger in the ’hood; five months in and the joint is jumpin’. With good reason: The ½-pound Fix Burger is fashioned from certified humane, all-natural beef and cooked to order. Fine fixin’s include homemade chili, garlic basil mayo, sautéed ’shrooms, and cheeses galore. Fries are crisp and perfect, and we lusted after another table’s crunchy onion rings and soft-serve shakes.
Ostrich, turkey, and veggie burgers are also available, as are a gaggle of good-looking salads. No more jonesin’: we know where our next fix is coming from, for sure.
The fix
2520 Hyperion Avenue
Silver Lake
323.661.8494
El Cholo
El Cholo, established in 1923, is among the City’s oldest eateries, and we love the warm colonial wood tables, arched doorways, and dark, back-in-the-day bar a lot. The date of birth of each dish is lovingly included on the menu; or why not order a "Taste of History," which comes with an enchilada, taco, chili relleno and pork tamale, with rice and beans- a steal at $12.75.
Among starters, Felix’s Caesar Salad ($3.95, bowl) is old-school, and resembled thin Russian dressing that had never met anchovies or garlic. Guacamole ($5.75) was avocado-laden and super-smooth, but could do with more chili power. Main courses fared far better: We loved our Carnitas ($12.95)-here, the pork is roasted, rather than deep fried, and served in a tangy citrus sauce for a Cuban point of view. Best of all was the Crabmeat Enchilada ($13.75), with a multi-layered jalapeno-cilantro pesto sauce that perfectly complimented the crab.
There’s only one dessert, but only one is needed: fabulous Flan, airy and eggy; light, with just the right touch of caramel sauce.
Big important note: given the recent brouhaha of contributions to "Yes on 8" by the owners of El Coyote, many erstwhile GLBT customers no longer sleep with that enemy. Happily, our tribe is welcomed with open arms by lovely manageress Alma and the rest of the Cholitos. Vamos!
Margaritas, the house classic, are $7.50; a quart mix to go is $5.00.
El Cholo
1121 S. Western Avenue
Los Angeles
323.734.2773
