What Makes a Straight Man Pop His Cork?
Mark Eberwein likes to be on top... of his wine list. So it’s no wonder that the St. Regis Deer Valley’s Sommelier was recently named by "Food & Wine" as one of the country’s top sommeliers. Eberwein oversees the resort’s wine collection, which boasts 1,000+ different labels ranging from 50 under $50 to once-in-a-lifetime vintage bottles that may send you into debt consolidation.
Eberwein, a family man who joined the St. Regis team in August 2010 after a 9-year tenure at the award-winning El Bizcocho Restaurant at the Rancho Bernardo Inn, took our light-hearted probing in stride and exudes a warm affinity indicative of the St. Regis Deer Valley. Eberwein shares a bit of his wine philosophy and offers EDGE readers exclusive insights into some of the best pairings of the season:
The St. Regis Deer Valley Wine Experience
Matthew for EDGE: My first exposure to "wine" was a 2-liter of Bartles & Jaymes purchased at a drive-thru liquor store in Oxford, Ohio. Classy, I know... can you trump that?
Eberwein: My first real exposure to wine was at the El Bizcocho Dining Room in San Diego. It was completely new to me - to care that much about wine was foreign but very exciting. The first time I was invited to taste it was a Kalin chardonnay. I can’t say that it was an "a ha" moment but to hear the sommeliers speak about it and to begin to taste what they were saying at the very least I caught the bug. I couldn’t wait to try new wines and suddenly what little money I had was spent on wine.
Matthew for EDGE: "You’ve come a long way, baby," as they say. So now you’re shacked up at one of the premier vacation destinations in the country. What sort of wine experience can guests expect when visiting the St. Regis Deer Valley?
Eberwein: With more than 1,000 selections and a beautiful environment our guests can expect to be treated to the very best. We feel as a team that wine is something to be celebrated not to be pretentious or arrogant about. We look to enhance the evening with wine and not just take orders. We’re even training several of our staff members to take the Court of Master Sommeliers level one certification.
We have a Prix Fixe menu that we pair wines with year round. Being a J&G Grill we are able to pull menus from all of the Jean Georges restaurants. This allows us to explore flavors from around the world with the challenge and excitement of pairing wines with them. Beginning in May we will dedicate a portion of our menu specifically to Spice Market New York. We are currently having fun exploring these south Asian flavors and they ways they work with wine.
Matthew for EDGE: Are there any interesting food and wine events planned for the summer months?
Eberwein: We just finished having Robert Sinskey here at the property for our first Spa and Wine event. Our guests experienced treatments while speaking with the winemaker and enjoying his wines. Is there anything better than having a pedicure while speaking to the winemaker, who happens to be having a manicure next to you?
The J&G Grill menu will be changing constantly featuring all of Jean Georges restaurants beginning with Spice Market, after that will be ABC Kitchen and so on. We will have wine tastings and dinners surrounding this concept. We will also have a monthly wine dinner or reception throughout the summer.
Peel Me a Grape
Matthew for EDGE: Let’s start talkin’ booze. Some wines may seem wrong but oh, so right-like wearing white before Memorial Day. Do you have any unexpected recommendations, for the following unconventional pairings and summer favorites?
A red to drink with grilled fish
Eberwein: I’m glad you said grilled because it definitely helps. Pinot Noir lends itself best to fish as it has very soft tannins. I look for the wines of the Russian River or Volnay to pair. I believe they have a greater level of elegance as to not overpower the fish.
A white to drink with a t-bone steak
Eberwein: I know it is crazy but if it has to be white try champagne. Sparkling wine’s effervescence and acidity allows it to stand up to most foods and it goes remarkably well with some unusual foods.
A bottomless vat of sangria
Eberwein: Zinfandel would be my choice, with its jam-like fruit and richness, but don’t ruin a good bottle over it.
A pairing that should be avoided at all costs
Eberwein: Anything with artichokes! Artichokes were created to destroy wine. I swear chefs have it out for sommeliers when they create set menus with artichokes. Also anything sweet with tannic reds. The sugar accents the tannins, making the wine seem extremely bitter. (red wine + chocolate = Overated!)
Matthew for EDGE: I used to only be attracted to all-American guys, but after moving to New York City, I discovered an entire world of cultures that I can’t keep my hands off of. I feel the same way about wine - I love my ABC’s (anything but chardonnay) and there’s a whole slew of countries out there besides the obvious. Any interesting wines coming from the following locales?
Greece
Eberwein: Greece has really begun to gain real popularity they export some Muscat as a well as some of the more well known varieties like Chardonnay but I recently tasted an Assyrtiko, a white wine that was very similar to an Albarino or Riesling.
Romania
Eberwein: Romania has some potential. They currently export the more well known varieties. One in particular is a pinot noir from Murfatlar that has real potential.
Mexico
Eberwein: It will be only time when the wines of Mexico are recognized as quality wines. They have all of the advantages of Chile and are currently making several wines that stand out.
Matthew for EDGE: Certain summer menus can be a train wreck to pair with, like open-toe shoes and pantyhose. Thoughts on winning matches for the following?
Artichokes and asparagus
Eberwein: Sparkling Wine, Sparkling Wine, and possibly Sparkling Wine.
Fiddleheads or other pickly things
Eberwein: Sauvignon Blanc especially from New Zealand has a very fresh and herbaceous quality that sings with these unique ingredients.
Tomatoes
Eberwein: I love a dozen wines from Italy with tomatoes. The wines were made for the food first and the wine second. Sangiovese with it’s combination of acid and earth is wonderful with tomatoes.
Matthew for EDGE: Finally, what’s the most over-the-top offering in the St. Regis Deer Valley wine vault at present? A ’win the lottery’ sort of bottle... and what makes it so special?
Eberwein: 1949 Chevalier- Montrachet Maison Leroy. Leroy was one of the greatest wine makers of the era and his whites were nothing short of outstanding. With limited production of this grand cru at the time, only very few bottles still exist. It is rare to have any wine as old as 1949 but to have a white wine from 1949 that still drinks well is an outstanding statement about the winemaking and their dedication to the craft.
The summer months are Deer Valley’s best-kept secret, as the area boasts breathtaking vistas for hiking, biking or other mountain activities. And what better way to wrap up a day of outdoor adventure than with a visit to J&G Grill and a hand-selected bottle from the St. Regis’s stunning collection?
To read more about the St. Regis Deer Valley’s winter offerings, check out these EDGE features:
Winter Wonders at the St. Regis Deer Valley in Park City, Utah
The Culinary Genius of St. Regis Deer Valley in Park City, Utah
